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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.